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Camino Francés + Finisterre/Muxía — Albergue

I arrived in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on 13 September 2025 and began walking the Camino Francés on 14 September. Over the next 35 walking days, I followed the traditional route across the Pyrenees, Navarra, La Rioja, Castilla y León, and Galicia, reaching Santiago de Compostela on 18 October. After a rest day in Santiago, I continued with the Finisterre–Muxía extension, completing the journey on 27 October at the coast in Muxía.

This page records every stage I walked, including distances, accommodations, prices, and short reviews of each albergue and hostal I stayed in, with notes on meals when they were part of the accommodation.

Table of contents

Open Table of contents

SECTION 1 — Stage & Distance Summary

DayFrom → ToDistance (km)Cumulative (km)Accommodation
0SJPP (arrival)Maison d’hôtes Larraldia
1SJPP → Roncesvalles24.224.2Albergue de Peregrinos
2Roncesvalles → Zubiri21.445.6Albergue Río Arga Ibaia
3Zubiri → Pamplona20.466.0Hostel Casa Ibarrola
4Pamplona → Puente la Reina23.989.9Albergue Estrella Guía
5Puente la Reina → Estella21.6111.5Ágora Hostel
6Estella → Los Arcos21.0132.5Casa Arqueña
7Los Arcos → Logroño28.0160.5Albergue San Nicolás
8Logroño → Nájera29.0189.5Albergue Puerta de Nájera
9Nájera → Redecilla del Camino31.1220.6Albergue Essentia
10Redecilla del Camino → Villafranca M.O.23.5244.1Casa Rural La Alpargateria
11Villafranca M.O. → Orbaneja Riopico26.3270.4Casa Rural Fortaleza
12Orbaneja Riopico → Rabé de las Calzadas24.2294.6Hostal Fuente de Rabé
13Rabé de las Calzadas → Castrojeriz27.5322.1Espacio Interior
14Castrojeriz → Frómista24.7346.8Albergue Luz de Frómista
15Frómista → Carrión de los Condes18.8365.6Hostal Albe
16Carrión de los Condes → Ledigos23.4389.0Albergue La Morena
17Ledigos → Calzada del Coto21.0410.0Albergue San Roque
18Calzada del Coto → Villamarco23.4433.4Albergue La Vieja Escuela
19Villamarco → Arcahueja23.0456.4Hotel Camino Real
20Arcahueja → Oncina19.1475.5Albergue El Pajar de Oncina
21Oncina → Hospital de Órbigo25.0500.5Albergue Hidalgos
22Hospital de Órbigo → Astorga16.5517.0Albergue Franciscano
23Astorga → Rabanal del Camino20.2537.2Refugio Gaucelmo
24Rabanal del Camino → Molinaseca24.7561.9Casa Rural Lua Bierzo
25Molinaseca → Valtuille de Arriba26.1588.0Acogida La Biznaga
26Valtuille de Arriba → Vega de Valcarce21.1609.1Pensión Fernández
27Vega de Valcarce → Fonfría23.1632.2Casa Rural Núñez
28Fonfría → Samos19.2651.4Hospedería Externa del Monasterio
29Samos → Vilei (Barbadelo)19.0670.4Casa Barbadelo
30Vilei → A Pena (Paradela)10.0680.4Albergue Km 100 Casa do Rego
31A Pena (Paradela) → Airexe25.3705.7Pensión Eirexe
32Airexe → Melide22.1727.8Albergue O Candil
33Melide → A Calle de Ferreiros22.0749.8Albergue A Ponte de Ferreiros
34A Calle de Ferreiros → Lavacolla20.0769.8Albergue A Fábrica
35Lavacolla → Santiago de Compostela9.9779.7Albergue Blanco
36Santiago de Compostela (Rest Day)Albergue Blanco
F1Santiago de Compostela → Negreira20.6800.3Albergue Cotón
F2Negreira → Vilaserío13.0813.3Albergue-Pensión O Rueiro
F3Vilaserío → Lago16.0829.3Albergue Monte Aro
F4Lago → Cee25.6854.9Albergue A Casa da Fonte
F5Cee → Fisterra12.9867.8Albergue-Pensión Finistellae
F6Fisterra → Muxía27.8895.6Albergue Muxía Mare
F7Muxía (Rest Day)Albergue Muxía Mare

SECTION 2 — Day-by-Day Albergue Notes

Day 0 — Arrival in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (Arrival Day)

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Accommodation: Maison d’hôtes Larraldia

Price: €45 with dinner and breakfast

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A cosy guesthouse slightly outside the centre of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port — a bit farther from town, but very quiet and peaceful, making it a great place to rest before starting the Camino. The dinner is homemade and delicious, and the Basque cheesecake served after the meal was honestly one of the best I had during my entire Camino journey. Breakfast includes fruit grown directly from their own garden, and a friendly black house cat also joined us during breakfast! The bed and bathroom are very clean, creating a comfortable and relaxing place to prepare for Day 1.


Day 1 — SJPP → Roncesvalles (24.2 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles

Price: €29 including dinner

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: This is the only accommodation option in Roncesvalles, and the dorm is very large, so it can be noisy at night and difficult to sleep with so many people in one room. At 6am, they play loud choir music to wake everyone up — definitely unexpected! The toilets are acceptable. Dinner is available ; it was okay, and since there are no other food options in Roncesvalles, most pilgrims eat here. Overall, a well-organised monastery albergue and the classic first-night stop for many pilgrims on the Camino Francés.


Day 2 — Roncesvalles → Zubiri (21.4 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue Río Arga Ibaia

Price: €17

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A clean and comfortable albergue with a private bathroom in each dorm. There is a shared kitchen, and during my stay a group of Italian pilgrims cooked carbonara and shared it with everyone.


Day 3 — Zubiri → Pamplona (20.4 km)

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Accommodation: Hostel Casa Ibarrola

Price: €25

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: The hostel has cubicle-style beds with curtains that provide great privacy. There is free coffee, tea and biscuits available in the common area. However, there is only one sink for handwashing, and the drying area is indoors, so clothes can take a long time to dry.


Day 4 — Pamplona → Puente la Reina (23.9 km)

Accommodation: Albergue Estrella Guía

Price: €26

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: The hostel has beds with curtains, so there is good privacy. The host is very welcoming, and the beds are comfortable. The washing machine costs €5, and there is an outdoor drying area which helps clothes dry properly.


Day 5 — Puente la Reina → Estella (21.6 km)

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Accommodation: Ágora Hostel

Price: €20

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: The hostel has beds with curtains providing privacy, and the bed is comfortable, although it can get a bit warm at night. There is no washing basin for handwashing clothes, so you need to use their laundry service (€7 for wash and dry), and they fold the clothes and return them to you afterwards.


Day 6 — Estella → Los Arcos (21.0 km)

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Accommodation: Casa Arqueña

Price: €20

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: 100% Yes

Notes: Free towels are provided, and the bathroom is spacious and very clean, with shampoo and shower gel available. There is a free washing machine and a rooftop outdoor drying area so clothes dry well. In the kitchen there is complimentary cake, milk and drinks, and the host is extremely kind and welcoming, making it a really memorable stay.


Day 7 — Los Arcos → Logroño (28.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue San Nicolás

Price: €28 (booked, cash only)

Rating: ⭐⭐

Recommend: No

Notes: I arrived in Logroño during a wine festival, so the city centre was very chaotic and extremely noisy throughout the night. The bathroom in the albergue is quite small, and there is only an indoor drying area, so clothes are difficult to dry properly. I had booked the albergue in advance (cash only), but due to the noise in the city that night, I decided not to stay and chose to sleep in a hotel instead.


Day 8 — Logroño → Nájera (29.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue Puerta de Nájera

Price: €15 (cash only)

Rating: ⭐⭐

Recommend: No

Notes: I had booked a female dorm, but on arrival they did not provide one. The room I was given was along the path to another dorm, so people were constantly walking past. The bed was not very comfortable, and whenever the person on the lower bunk moved, the whole bed shook, which made it difficult to rest properly.


Day 9 — Nájera → Redecilla del Camino (31.1 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue Essentia

Price: €28 (bed + dinner)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Maybe

Notes: The bed was comfortable and the dinner served was tasty and well prepared. However, during check-in when I mentioned I was from Hong Kong, the host kept saying “China” repeatedly, which felt disrespectful and showed a lack of sensitivity. The overall stay was fine, but the attitude could have been more courteous.


Day 10 — Redecilla del Camino → Villafranca Montes de Oca (23.5 km)

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Accommodation: Casa Rural La Alpargateria

Price: €35

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: After staying in dorms for nine nights, I booked this private room for a quiet and comfortable sleep. The room is cozy and provided exactly the rest I needed.


Day 11 — Villafranca Montes de Oca → Orbaneja Riopico (26.3 km)

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Accommodation: Casa Rural Fortaleza

Price: €50

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: I booked a private room with a private bathroom, and I think I was the only guest in the house that night. The room was clean and quiet, but the heating wasn’t working, so it felt a bit cold. There’s no outdoor drying area, which makes laundry difficult. There is only one nearby bar and it closes early, so I couldn’t get a proper dinner that night. You need to call the host about an hour before arriving, as she isn’t on-site — her brother-in-law, who lives nearby, will open the door for you.


Day 12 — Orbaneja Riopico → Rabé de las Calzadas (24.2 km)

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Accommodation: Hostal Fuente de Rabé

Price: €60 (double room) + €13 dinner

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: After many nights in dorms, this was a very welcome private stay. The room was large, with both a double and a twin bed, the heating worked well, and the private bathroom was clean and included a hairdryer. There is a restaurant downstairs where I had a good dinner and a coffee for breakfast. The host was friendly and welcoming.


Day 13 — Rabé de las Calzadas → Castrojeriz (27.5 km)

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Accommodation: Espacio Interior

Price: €15 (bed) + €13 (dinner)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A very relaxing and peaceful albergue with a quiet atmosphere and a meditation area. The vegetarian dinner is delicious and filling, and there are two lovely white cats. Overall it feels like a very calm place to stay.


Day 14 — Castrojeriz → Frómista (24.7 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue Luz de Frómista

Price: €14

Rating:

Recommend: No

Notes: This was one of the worst albergues of my whole Camino. The shower only had cold water, the bed and overall cleanliness did not feel good, and you also have to buy disposable paper sheets for €1.50. The bunk bed shook every time the person below moved, making it hard to sleep. The biggest concern was that in the morning, while packing, I saw insects crawling on the bed. Because of all this, I would not recommend staying here.


Day 15 — Frómista → Carrión de los Condes (18.8 km)

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Accommodation: Hostal Albe

Price: €28

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: Great value for a budget single room with a private bathroom. They offer an excellent laundry service: clothes are washed and dried and then returned directly to your room. If you pay in cash, the laundry is free, which makes it an even better deal.


Day 16 — Carrión de los Condes → Ledigos (23.4 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue La Morena

Price: €21

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A very nice albergue — clean and comfortable, with real sheets on the beds. There is bottled water and a piece of chocolate placed on each bunk, which is a nice touch. Shower gel is provided in the bathrooms, and the restaurant serves a good pilgrim menu. The only downsides are that the shower room door is quite hard to close, and there is only one sink in the toilet area, so it can get crowded in the morning.


Day 17 — Ledigos → Calzada del Coto (21.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos San Roque

Price: €10 (donativo)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A basic but adequate albergue that covers all the essentials for a night. The hosts are volunteers and are very kind, welcoming and helpful, which makes the stay feel warm and friendly. The dormitory is large with many beds, but the night I stayed there were fewer than 10 people, so it felt quiet and spacious. Breakfast is included.


Day 18 — Calzada del Coto → Villamarco (23.4 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos La Vieja Escuela

Price: €5

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A very cheap albergue — only €5 a night — and great value, especially with a free washing machine available. However, it is located about 1 km off the main Camino route, so there is a small detour to reach it. There is only one nearby bar, and it only sells cold sandwiches, so it’s better to bring your own food as there is no proper dinner option in the area.


Day 19 — Villamarco → Arcahueja (23.0 km)

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Accommodation: Hotel Camino Real

Price: €49.50

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A comfortable hotel stay. I had a menu del día at a nearby restaurant for about €17.


Day 20 — Arcahueja → Oncina de la Valdoncina (19.1 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue El Pajar de Oncina

Price: €13 bed / €25 with dinner

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: One of the best albergues on the Camino Francés. It’s a nice and quiet place; the rooms, beds, bathrooms and toilets are all very clean. There is a lovely outdoor area with hammocks, plus a dog and a cat. The host is very kind and welcoming, and the home-cooked dinner is excellent and really delicious.


Day 21 — Oncina de la Valdoncina → Hospital de Órbigo (25.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue DORMERO Hidalgos

Price: €16

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Maybe

Notes: A clean, modern albergue with comfortable beds. The beds are placed quite close to each other, and there is no plug for the upper bunk, which can be inconvenient. Laundry (wash and dry) costs about €6.50, and there are restaurant options nearby for dinner.


Day 22 — Hospital de Órbigo → Astorga (16.5 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue Franciscano Santa María de los Ángeles

Price: €10

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A simple and welcoming albergue. For only €10, you actually get a double room with a bathroom, so it feels almost like having a private single room, which is amazing value. During my stay the washing machine was broken, so clothes had to be washed by hand. In the evening, there is Mass with a pilgrim blessing, and they also organise a small pilgrim sharing session, which creates a warm and reflective atmosphere.


Day 23 — Astorga → Rabanal del Camino (20.2 km)

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Accommodation: Refugio Gaucelmo

Price: €10 (donativo)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A quiet albergue run by volunteers with a peaceful and welcoming atmosphere. I had an issue with insect bites during my stay, but the volunteers were very kind and helped me wash and dry my clothes. In the evening, they offer a lovely tea session in the garden with tea, biscuits, and homemade cake, which feels very warm and communal. Breakfast is also included, with coffee provided.


Day 24 — Rabanal del Camino → Molinaseca (24.7 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue-Casa Rural Lua Bierzo

Price: €35

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A casa rural with single rooms where everything is self-service. Payment is left in a drawer next to the bed. The place is very modern, clean and quiet, and laundry costs €3 for washing.


Day 25 — Molinaseca → Valtuille de Arriba (26.1 km)

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Accommodation: Acogida La Biznaga

Price: €10 (donativo)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: Breakfast is included, dinner costs €10, and laundry is €3.50. Both the bed and bathroom are very clean. Dinner is vegetarian, consisting only of a cold salad and a vegetable soup, which I felt was not quite enough after a long day of walking.


Day 26 — Valtuille de Arriba → Vega de Valcarce (21.1 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue-Pensión Fernández

Price: €39 (queen room with shared bathroom)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A clean pension with a comfortable bed. Laundry (washing) costs €5. Be cautious about dinner times in the area — the nearby restaurants close early, and I missed the dinner time, so I could only get small tapas in a nearby bar. There aren’t many dining options, so plan ahead if you want a proper meal.


Day 27 — Vega de Valcarce → Fonfría (23.1 km)

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Accommodation: Casa Rural Núñez

Price: €45 (private room with bathroom)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A very spacious double room with an ensuite bathroom, offering a comfortable and quiet stay. The group dinner has a warm, friendly atmosphere and is very fulfilling.


Day 28 — Fonfría → Samos (19.2 km)

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Accommodation: Hospedería Externa del Monasterio de Samos

Price: €25 (private room with shared bathroom)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: The room was simple but clean, a towel was provided, and drying in the machine cost about €2. I had a menu of the day in a nearby restaurant for around €14, and a friendly couple actually paid for my meal.


Day 29 — Samos → Vilei / Barbadelo (19.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue-Pensión Casa Barbadelo

Price: €11.20 (last-minute deal on booking.com)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A good-value stay booked last minute. The facilities are clean. Laundry costs €3.50 for washing and €4.50 for drying. Dinner at the albergue was about €15.


Day 30 — Vilei → A Pena (Paradela) (10.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue Km 100 Casa do Rego

Price: €15 bed + €15 dinner

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A quiet stop with a comfortable bed and a good dinner.


Day 31 — A Pena (Paradela) → Airexe (25.3 km)

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Accommodation: Pensión Eirexe

Price: €13

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A clean pension. There is a nearby restaurant where dinner cost about €19.


Day 32 — Airexe → Melide (22.1 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue O Candil

Price: €20 (breakfast included)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A nice albergue in Melide with breakfast included and towels provided. I had dinner at a nearby restaurant for about €28.50.


Day 33 — Melide → A Calle de Ferreiros (22.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue A Ponte de Ferreiros

Price: €15

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: Laundry (wash and dry) costs about €6.50, and I had dinner in the hostel restaurant for around €18.


Day 34 — A Calle de Ferreiros → Lavacolla (20.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue A Fábrica

Price: €21.10

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A modern albergue booked and paid online. Each bed has a curtain, which gives good privacy. The dryer costs €4. I had a bocadillo at a nearby hotel for about €9 and dinner at a restaurant for around €15. A good last stop before the final 10 km into Santiago.


Day 35 — Lavacolla → Santiago de Compostela (9.9 km)

Day 36 — Santiago de Compostela (Rest Day)

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Accommodation: Albergue Blanco

Price: €25

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A clean, comfortable and modern albergue close to the centre of Santiago. A good place to land after finishing the Camino.


Finisterre & Muxía Extension

Day F1 — Santiago de Compostela → Negreira (20.6 km)

Accommodation: Albergue Cotón

Price: €15

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A comfortable albergue in Negreira with a friendly host. Towels, shower gel and shampoo are provided. There are many bathrooms with toilets, and everything is clean and well maintained. Laundry costs about €4 for wash and dry. A good first stop on the way to Finisterre.


Day F2 — Negreira → Vilaserío (13.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue-Pensión O Rueiro

Price: €55 (private room with bathroom)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: I was forced to stop here due to very heavy rain, so it was nice to stay in a quiet, fairly large private room. The room has a hairdryer, which was very helpful for drying all my wet clothes and gear. Laundry costs about €4 each for washing and drying. There is also a restaurant inside the albergue/pensión, making it convenient to get a hot meal without going back out into the rain.


Day F3 — Vilaserío → Lago (16.0 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue Monte Aro

Price: €15 (bed), dinner €15

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: I was forced to stop here for the second consecutive day due to heavy rain. The hosts are very nice, and the food in the restaurant is delicious and comforting after a wet day. The albergue has many bathrooms with toilets, and the overall facilities are clean. Because of the rain, they even provided newspapers so we could stuff our shoes and help dry them out, which was very thoughtful. Laundry costs about €4 each for washing and drying.


Day F4 — Lago → Cee (25.6 km)

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Accommodation: Albergue A Casa da Fonte

Price: €16

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A cash-only albergue with clean and simple facilities. However, there is no outdoor drying area, so it’s quite difficult to dry clothes properly.


Day F5 — Cee → Fisterra (12.9 km)

Accommodation: Albergue-Pensión Finistellae

Price: €13

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A comfortable albergue in Fisterra not far from the sea, with easy access to food and shops. A nice base to explore the town and walk out to the lighthouse.


Day F6 — Fisterra → Muxía (27.8 km)

Day F7 — Muxía (Rest Day)

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Accommodation: Albergue Muxía Mare

Price: €35 (private room)

Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Recommend: Yes

Notes: A treat to myself after finishing the whole Camino — I booked a private room here, and it was absolutely worth it. The room is very clean, comfortable, and quiet, and you can even see the sunset and the sea from the window, which made the stay feel extra special. As Muxía is right by the sea, it can get quite cold at night, but there are working heaters both in the bedroom and the living room, which made the stay very comfortable.

My private room was within a small shared apartment-style unit, which I shared with a German woman I met along the way, so the common living room and kitchen were shared between just the two of us. The common area also has a free washing machine and all the necessary cutlery for cooking. Overall, a perfect and peaceful place to rest after the long final stage from Fisterra.