Camino Francés + Finisterre/Muxía — Day by Day Journey

I arrived in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on 13 September 2025 and began walking the Camino Francés on 14 September. Over the next 35 walking days, I crossed the Pyrenees and continued through Navarra, La Rioja, Castilla y León, and Galicia, reaching Santiago de Compostela on 18 October. After a rest day in Santiago, I continued to Finisterre and Muxía, completing the journey on 27 October.

This post focuses on the day-by-day journey itself — how each stage felt, the weather, the people I met, and the small moments along the way. Practical details such as accommodation and prices are documented separately.

🛏️ Where I stayed:
Read the full accommodation guide here →
Camino Francés + Finisterre/Muxía — Albergue Guide

Table of contents

SECTION 1 — Stage & Distance Overview

SECTION 2 — Day-by-Day Journey

Day 0 — Arrival in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

I arrived in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the afternoon and spent the day settling in, organising my gear, and mentally preparing for the start of the Camino.

🛏️ Stayed at Maison d’hôtes Larraldia — full accommodation details here.

Day 1 — SJPP → Roncesvalles (24.2 km)

I started my Camino early in the morning, knowing that the first day is often described as one of the hardest due to the long uphill climb over the Pyrenees. Before setting off, I met a group of Malaysian guys and even spoke a bit of Cantonese with them.

The weather was very kind to us — cloudy and cool — which made the long ascent much more pleasant than I had expected. Instead of struggling with the heat, I could actually enjoy hiking through the mountains and taking in the views. The climb was manageable.

Near the end of the stage, just before arriving in Roncesvalles, I met a Chinese pilgrim named Leon. We walked the final stretch together and chatted along the way. It was also my first time using trekking poles, and I realised I was using them completely wrong. Leon kindly showed me how to use my waist instead of pressing too hard with my arms, which immediately made walking feel easier. That small tip helped a lot and saved my arms from unnecessary strain.

I spent about 7 hours walking on my first Camino day before finally reaching the albergue. The Albergue de Peregrinos in Roncesvalles is huge — one floor alone holds around 50 people.

Dinner was at the albergue, and that evening I met a Korean couple. We chatted during dinner, and the girl mentioned that she had studied Spanish during her undergraduate degree. We ended up talking in Spanish for a while — she became my first Camino friend, which made the experience feel even more special.

After such a long day, I was exhausted, but sleeping wasn’t easy. I wasn’t used to the constant snoring yet and woke up many times during the night.

In the early morning, everyone was woken up by loud choir music at around 6 a.m. — honestly quite funny. It was a very Camino-style start to the day.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles — full accommodation details here.

Day 2 — Roncesvalles → Zubiri (21.4 km)

After the pleasant weather on Day 1, I thought Day 2 would be just as comfortable — and in the beginning, it was. I started walking quite early, around 7–8 a.m., before the sun was fully out. It wasn’t too cold, and the path felt calm and gentle. The terrain was relatively flat at first, which made the morning walk feel relaxed and steady.

Leaving Roncesvalles, I saw the famous sign showing 790 km to Santiago de Compostela. Standing there, it still felt a bit unreal — the Camino signs, the yellow arrows painted on the ground, and the idea that I was only at the very beginning of such a long journey. Following those yellow arrows still felt new and slightly surreal.

Even though I had already walked over the Pyrenees the day before, everything still felt very fresh — the signs, the symbols, and the rhythm of walking. I was slowly getting used to trusting the arrows on the road and letting the Camino guide me forward.

As the day went on, the weather slowly changed. The sun came out, and after midday, it started to feel noticeably hotter. Toward the end of the stage, the route descended steeply, with lots of small, loose, and slippery stones. Going downhill required extra attention — it was tiring on the legs, and I had to slow down to avoid slipping. The combination of heat and the long descent made the final stretch especially exhausting.

By the time I arrived at the albergue in Zubiri, I was completely worn out. After resting for a bit, I met a Korean guy at the hostel, and we decided to cook dinner together. We invited a few other pilgrims staying there, and later on, a group of Italian pilgrims joined us and cooked carbonara. In the end, we all shared dinner together at the albergue — a spontaneous, warm communal meal that felt very Camino-like.

After such a physically demanding day, sitting down to eat and talk with people from different countries was incredibly comforting. It was one of those moments where the tiredness fades a little, replaced by the feeling that you’re no longer walking alone.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue Río Arga Ibaia — full accommodation details here.

Day 3 — Zubiri → Pamplona (20.4 km)

Even though the distance wasn’t very long, Day 3 felt tough. Early September was still very hot, and walking under the strong sun made the stage much more tiring than expected. With little shade along the way, the heat slowly drained my energy, kilometre by kilometre.

By the time I arrived in Pamplona, I was absolutely starving. I went straight to Mesón de la Navarrería and ordered a bocata de lomo con queso y anchoa. After hours of walking in the heat, that simple meal tasted unbelievably good.

After eating, I finally had enough energy to walk around and explore Pamplona’s city centre. It felt very different from the Camino villages — lively streets, old buildings, and plenty to see.

In the evening, I had a few good and tasty tapas for dinner.

🛏️ Stayed at Hostel Casa Ibarrola — full accommodation details here.

Day 4 — Pamplona → Puente la Reina (23.9 km)

With both uphill sections and strong heat, I knew it would be another physically demanding day. Right from the start, there was very little shade, and we walked directly under the sun for long stretches. The heat and bright sunlight made the climb feel even tougher.

As we approached the top, the views slowly opened up, and reaching the Mirador del Alto del Perdón felt like a small victory. Seeing the famous pilgrim statues at the top was a powerful moment — one of those iconic Camino scenes that you’ve seen in photos.

After the Mirador, we continued walking under the heat, slowly descending and pushing on toward Puente la Reina. By the time I arrived at the hostel, I was completely starving. Unfortunately, dinner wasn’t served until 7:30 p.m., so there was a long wait.

While waiting, I went to Bar Gares with a Chinese pilgrim I had met along the way. I ordered Iberian pork, and it was incredibly tasty — rich, juicy, and absolutely worth the wait after such a hard day of walking.

After dinner, I walked a bit around Puente la Reina and headed toward the famous bridge and river.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue Estrella Guía — full accommodation details here.

Day 5 — Puente la Reina → Estella (21.6 km)

To avoid the heat in the middle of the day, I started walking very early, around 6:45 a.m., when the sun wasn’t out yet and the air was still cool.

However, I had started developing a small blister around my ankle from the day before. Going uphill was especially painful — I think it was caused by the hard ankle area of my shoes, which were still relatively new. Even though the distance wasn’t long, the discomfort made every uphill section feel much harder than expected.

As the morning went on, the sun came out again, and the heat quickly built up. Large parts of the route had little to no shade, and walking under the direct sun was exhausting despite the early start.

By the time I arrived in Estella, my ankle was really bothering me, so the first thing I did was buy Compeed blister plasters to protect it before it got worse. After sorting that out, I walked around and explore the town.

For dinner, I ended up eating Chinese food together with two Chinese guys and a Korean guy.

🛏️ Stayed at Ágora Hostel — full accommodation details here.

Day 6 — Estella → Los Arcos (21.0 km)

Day 6 was another hot day, so I started walking fairly early again, around 7 a.m., hoping to avoid the worst of the midday sun. For part of the way, I walked with Leon, and along the route we met a friendly group of Taiwanese pilgrims. They shared some fresh figs with us, which was such a small but sweet Camino moment.

Along the way, we also picked a few figs from trees beside the path. They looked tempting, but it turned out they weren’t fully ripe yet.

As the day went on, the heat became intense again. A big part of the route felt exposed, with long stretches of walking under the sun and hardly any shade.

When I finally arrived in Los Arcos, I walked around the town a little. It’s a small place, with a beautiful church right in the centre.

Inside the church, there was a choir singing. I stayed to listen for a while, and it was such a peaceful experience — the kind of quiet moment that feels almost like the Camino gives you a pause to breathe.

🛏️ Stayed at Casa Arqueña — full accommodation details here.

Day 7 — Los Arcos → Logroño (28–29 km)

Day 7 was a fairly long stage — around 29 km — so I started early again, before 7 a.m. I was supposed to walk with Leon, but he overslept, so I began the day walking on my own.

At the beginning, the weather was surprisingly pleasant. It was cloudy with some wind, and the cooler air made the morning walk feel comfortable and steady.

Along the way, I passed through the small village of Viana, and it happened to be a very lively moment — it looked like there were two weddings going on at the same time.

After midday, the sun came out again and the heat returned. As the temperature rose, the final kilometres became much harder. The heat started to feel almost intolerable.

When I arrived in Logroño, I immediately felt a totally different kind of exhaustion — not just from walking, but from the noise and crowds. There seemed to be a wine festival happening, and the whole city centre was packed with people celebrating. It was chaotic, loud, and overwhelming. As someone who prefers the quieter side of the Camino — the calm walking, the peaceful villages, the simple routine — the atmosphere honestly felt like the opposite of what I needed after such a long day.

My albergue was right in the middle of the festival scene, and in the end I decided not to stay there for the night. Instead, I chose to sleep somewhere outside the busy city centre, where I could actually rest properly.

That night, Leon also decided to pause his Camino. After the long, hot first week, he felt he needed a break, so he took a train to Madrid to rest first. He planned to return later and continue the final 100 km from Sarria. It reminded me that the Camino isn’t only about finishing — sometimes listening to your body and taking a break is also part of the journey.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue San Nicolás — full accommodation details here.

Day 8 — Logroño → Nájera (29.0 km)

Day 8 was the first day of my Camino with rain. When I woke up and saw the weather, I hoped the rain might stop if I waited a little — but it didn’t. In the end, I had no choice but to start walking anyway.

When I went downstairs at the hotel, I met a friendly Australian couple. They invited me to walk with them, and as the rain got heavier, they even helped me pull out the rain cover for my backpack and helped me with it. It was such a small thing, but it made me feel supported.

As we walked together, we came across two Spanish pilgrims, and soon the five of us were walking as a small group. I had the chance to speak Spanish with them, which made me genuinely happy — one of my goals for the Camino was to practise Spanish whenever I could!

After some time, we separated. The Australian couple stopped first, and I continued walking with one of the Spanish women, Montserrat, she was from Barcelona. We walked together for quite a while, chatting as we walked.

Later, I decided to stop and rest in a bar. By the time I was ready to leave again, the rain had finally eased, and the weather began to clear slightly. I set off again and continued walking toward Nájera.

As the road continued, I kept passing through beautiful wine country, with rows of grapevines stretching out across the fields.

Toward the end of the stage, the sky turned grey again. I didn’t want to get caught in heavy rain one more time, so I sped up and walked faster, hoping to reach Nájera as soon as possible. I managed to arrive at the albergue just in time — right before the rain started pouring heavily again.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue Puerta de Nájera — full accommodation details here.

Day 9 — Nájera → Redecilla del Camino (31.1 km)

Day 9 was fortunately a sunny day — no rain at all — and it felt so much easier mentally compared to yesterday. Early on the way, I even saw a few cats along the route.

The scenery along the way was also beautiful. With the clear sky and fresh air, walking felt peaceful and steady.

Later in the day, the weather changed again — not rain this time, but strong wind. It became very windy and I basically had to tolerate the wind for a long stretch until reaching Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where I stopped for lunch.

That turned out to be a very good decision. I stopped at Bar Piedra, and it ended up being one of the best lunch breaks of my entire Camino journey. The food was comforting and satisfying after hours of walking in the wind, and the cheesecake was genuinely one of the best I had on the Camino — the perfect reward before continuing on.

Looking back, I think I made a bad decision here. Many website recommend stopping in Santo Domingo (and it would have been a sensible stage), but I felt that 20 km was too short and decided to push on to the next two stops instead. Even though the weather was pleasant and not too hot, walking 32 km was still exhausting — especially knowing that I still had to continue the journey the next day.

I ended up arriving at around 6 p.m., completely tired. After this day, I decided to take things slower and avoid pushing too hard. Ideally, I would keep my stages under 30 km from now on.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue Essentia — full accommodation details here.

Day 10 — Redecilla del Camino → Villafranca Montes de Oca (23.5 km)

After the very long walk the day before, I finally decided to slow down. I had already walked 32 km on Day 9, and one of my roommates asked me, “Why do you have to do this? Are you in a rush?” The answer was definitely no. That question stayed with me, and I realised I didn’t need to push myself so hard. From this point on, I decided to keep my stages shorter — ideally under 25 km — and walk at a more sustainable pace.

My blister around the ankle was also getting worse, which made the decision even clearer. I walked together with my roommates for a while in the morning, but later continued on my own toward Belorado.

In Belorado, I stopped at a pharmacy to buy Compeed blister plasters and ibuprofen — some much-needed Camino supplies at this point.

Back on the trail, I kept seeing many “dead” sunflowers along the route.

Compared to the previous days, today’s route felt relatively flat and easy. With fewer hills and a shorter distance.

When I arrived in Villafranca Montes de Oca, I realised it was a very small town. Most places were already closed, and the only option for dinner nearby was Hotel Restaurante San Antón Abad, so I went there for a menú del día. Inside, I ended up sitting with a couple from the US and a Belgian guy. During dinner, the couple shared their beautiful story — they had actually gotten engaged while walking the Camino together. Hearing that made the evening feel extra special and heart-warming, a reminder that everyone is carrying their own journey along this path.

🛏️ Stayed at Casa Rural La Alpargateria — full accommodation details here.

Day 11 — Villafranca Montes de Oca → Orbaneja Riopico (26.3 km)

Day 11 started with a calm and relatively flat road, making it a nice way to ease into another long walk.

I stopped by a café for lunch and had a bocadillo de morcilla de Burgos — a Spanish blood sausage — together with a café con leche. It was my first time trying morcilla.

After lunch, I set off again as it was getting late. The sun grew stronger and the temperature started to rise, making the afternoon walk feel heavier.

Because my clothes hadn’t fully dried from the day before, I had to hang them on my backpack to air-dry while walking. It looked a bit funny, and even with the strong sun, they still weren’t completely dry after being on my backpack the whole day — one of those small Camino struggles you just learn to accept.

After arriving at the hostel, I relaxed for a bit and took a shower. Later, when I went out to look for dinner, I realised almost everything was already closed. It’s a very small town, with basically just one bar/restaurant. By the time I got there, the only food left was tortilla and a banana — not exactly a proper dinner, but better than nothing.

This is one of the downsides of staying in small villages: food options can be very limited if you arrive late. Still, the quiet atmosphere and peaceful surroundings made it a relaxing place to end the day.

🛏️ Stayed at Casa Rural Fortaleza — full accommodation details here.

Day 12 — Orbaneja Riopico → Rabé de las Calzadas (24.2 km)

Day 12 turned out to be the coldest day of my entire Camino. I started walking very early in the morning, and right away I could feel how different the day was going to be.

Walking toward Burgos in the dark and cold was honestly brutal — it was around 3°C, and because the sun wasn’t up yet, it felt absolutely freezing. My hands were numb, my face felt stiff from the cold, and all I could think about was finding somewhere warm.

By the time I reached the outskirts of Burgos, before heading into the city centre, I stopped at a bar to warm up and have breakfast.

I had tortilla, some tapas, a tostada con jamón and a café con leche — a big breakfast, but very much needed after yesterday’s “dinner” of tortilla and banana. Sitting indoors, warming up, and eating properly again felt incredibly comforting after the freezing morning.

After breakfast, I walked into the centre of Burgos to buy a pair of gloves — absolutely essential in this weather — and then went to visit Burgos Cathedral, the iconic landmark of the city.

The cathedral was stunning and definitely one of the highlights of Burgos. Even though it was tempting to stay in the city, I decided not to sleep there. I’ve learned that staying overnight in big cities can be noisy, and I preferred to continue walking to a smaller place for a quieter night.

Once I left Burgos behind, the sun finally came out, and suddenly everything felt so much better. The warmth made a huge difference — it was hard to believe how freezing it had been just a few hours earlier.

After arriving at the hostel in Rabé de las Calzadas, I relaxed for a bit and was grateful that this accommodation also had a restaurant downstairs, so I could finally have a proper dinner without worrying about places being closed.

After dinner, I chatted with the owner for a while. He was very kind and encouraged me to speak more Spanish along the Camino. Before I went upstairs, he even gifted me a small bottle of water — a simple gesture, but one that felt very warm.

🛏️ Stayed at Hostal Fuente de Rabé — full accommodation details here.

Day 13 — Rabé de las Calzadas → Castrojeriz (27.5 km)

Day 13 started very early again — before sunrise. It was still dark when I set off, but fortunately it was not as cold as yesterday.

The morning was extremely foggy.

After walking for around 10 km, I stopped for breakfast and had tostada with café con leche.

Not long after breakfast, I came across a few cats along the way.

As the morning went on, the fog slowly began to lift, revealing blue skies and sunshine.

Later, I stopped again for lunch.

There was another cat in the restaurant.

After lunch, I still had a fair distance to go. The afternoon sun became strong, and large parts of the route had no shade at all. Walking under the direct sun was tough, and the heat made the final stretch feel endless.

Eventually, I arrived at the albergue in Castrojeriz. This turned out to be one of the most relaxing places I stayed on the Camino. The atmosphere was calm and peaceful, with a meditation session held by the host.

Dinner was a vegetarian meal, beautifully prepared with many different dishes. It was very filling and delicious, and we had great conversations around the table. The whole place had a very chill and relaxing vibe, with not many pilgrims staying that night. The host was very kind, and she also had two lovely white cats, which made the place feel even warmer and more welcoming.

That evening, I met two Swedish sisters who walk a section of the Camino each year — about five days at a time. They started their journey back in 2019 and continue it little by little. When they heard that I had developed blisters, one of them kindly offered me a pair of socks.

It was such a small gesture, but incredibly heartwarming. Moments like that remind me how caring and generous pilgrims can be.

I also met Karen and Rich, a couple in their 70s and 80s who had already completed 11 Caminos!

🛏️ Stayed at Espacio Interior — full accommodation details here.

Day 14 — Castrojeriz → Frómista (24.7 km)

Day 14 started early again to avoid the heat.

As I approached Mirador del Alto de Mostelares, something unexpected happened — I started to see the sunrise. I hadn’t planned it at all, but suddenly the sky began turning orange and pink. It was absolutely spectacular.

This was definitely one of the most memorable views of my entire Camino journey!

After soaking in the view, I continued walking.

Later in the morning, I stopped for breakfast — a café con leche and a sandwich (again). At this point, sandwiches had basically become a Camino staple.

The weather stayed pleasant for a while, and walking felt steady and comfortable.

By noon, however, it became very sunny and hot again. I stopped once more for another café con leche and another sandwich before continuing the final stretch toward Frómista.

When I arrived in Frómista, unfortunately the hostel turned out to be the worst of my entire Camino. The bed felt dirty, and there was only cold water in the shower. It was a disappointing end after such a beautiful morning.

(Full details in my accommodation archive below.)

In the evening, I went to a nearby restaurant for dinner.

I had ribs and shared dinner with the Swedish sister I had met earlier that day at the Castrojeriz albergue. We had a really nice conversation over dinner, which helped balance out the frustrating accommodation experience. It reminded me that even when a stay isn’t great, the people you meet can still make the day special.

After dinner, we walked outside and saw two little kittens nearby.

Just across from the restaurant, the church was beautifully illuminated at night.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue Luz de Frómista — full accommodation details here.

Day 15 — Frómista → Carrión de los Condes (18.8 km)

After the terrible night at the albergue — the dirty, squeaky bed making noise every time I moved — I decided to leave as early as possible. I started walking at around 6 a.m., still in the dark.

Walking alone in the darkness felt a little creepy at first. The road was silent, and very quiet. Luckily, not long after starting, I met a lady from New Zealand. She had stayed at the same albergue and also thought it was horrible. We immediately bonded over the shared experience and walked together for quite a while.

As the sky slowly brightened and the sun began to rise, the atmosphere became much lighter. She walked a bit faster than me, so after sunrise I continued at my own pace.

Today’s walk felt slightly dull compared to the previous days. Much of the route was simply along the side of a long straight road.

After some time, I stopped for lunch.

Right outside the restaurant there was a church. I saw a few people going inside, which made me curious — I wanted to step in and have a look as well. However, when I approached the door, it seemed locked and I couldn’t enter. It looked like there might have been a private event or service taking place inside.

At the entrance of the church, there was a lovely view overlooking the town.

After lunch, I continued walking — again mostly along the roadside.

Eventually, I saw a Camino plate on the ground with “Carrión” and the shell symbol.

That small sign meant I had arrived. Carrión de los Condes is a tiny and quiet town.

Tonight, I chose to stay in a single room with a private bathroom. After so many albergues, I really wanted some privacy and quiet. It was absolutely worth it.

After checking in, I quickly went out to find water and fruit. It was Sunday, and many shops closed early — around 1 p.m. Fortunately (or unfortunately), I managed to buy only a bottle of water before everything shut.

While walking around town looking for food, I saw the Swedish sisters I had met earlier sitting inside a café. I went in to say hello. We chatted for a while and exchanged Instagram. Since this was their last day of the Camino (they walk a few days each year and continue the following year), we said goodbye.

While waiting for dinner time, I ordered a smoothie nearby.

I wandered around the town and found another church.

However, even the church was closed — Sundays in small towns can feel very quiet.

Finally, after 7 p.m., I was able to get dinner.

During dinner, an Irish couple, Kevin and Mags, joined my table, and we had a lovely conversation throughout the meal.

🛏️ Stayed at Hostal Albe — full accommodation details here.

Day 16 — Carrión de los Condes → Ledigos (23.4 km)

I left the hostel at around 7 a.m. It was still dark, and I expected that there would be nowhere open for breakfast. Ahead of me was the famous long stretch — about 17–18 km with no towns, just open road.

Fortunately, I saw a bar open before leaving town and quickly went in for a café con leche and tortilla.

After that, I began walking into the darkness.

As I continued, I looked back and saw the sun rising behind me. The sky slowly changed colour, and the sunrise quietly followed me along the road.

Along the way, there were several small food trucks set up beside the route. I stopped at one of them and had a sandwich.

Then I continued walking along this long stretch.

For many people, this section is considered boring, but honestly, I didn’t find it that way. I enjoyed the quiet rhythm — just walking peacefully, without distractions, letting my thoughts settle.

Eventually, I reached a restaurant and stopped for lunch.

After lunch, I continued toward Ledigos.

On the way, we saw a sign that said:

“Bienvenidos Ledigos Centro del Camino Frances a Santiago”

That meant we were roughly halfway through the journey. Seeing that number felt significant — not just physically, but mentally.

When I arrived at the hostel, it was still before 1 p.m., and I was the second pilgrim to arrive. I could enjoy the shower completely by myself. However, out of all the beds available, I made a slightly strange choice — I chose the bed opposite the shower.

At the time, I thought it would be convenient. In reality, it turned out to be super noisy, with people coming in and out all evening, and the light shining directly toward my bed at night. Lesson learned.

After settling down and napping a bit, I went to the restaurant inside the hostel for dinner.

At dinner, I sat with an American guy, a Dutch woman, and a woman from the UK. The Dutch woman couldn’t finish her food and almost gave me all of her chicken, saying I had a great appetite. After such long walking days, I guess that was true.

After dinner, I met Karen and Rich again, as well as the Irish couple Kevin and Mags whom I had met the night before. We chatting for quite a while, sharing stories from the road and laughing about the little struggles of the Camino. Those casual conversations after dinner often feel just as meaningful as the walking itself.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue La Morena — full accommodation details here.

Day 17 — Ledigos → Calzada del Coto (21.0 km)

After having a café con leche and tortilla at the restaurant downstairs in the hostel, I started walking at around 7:30 a.m and it was still dark outside.

As I kept walking, I began to see the sky slowly changing. The darkness softened into deep blue, then pale orange.

I really love the feeling of watching the sun rise while walking. Seeing the sky transform from dark to bright, the gradual change of colours, and then the first golden light touching the fields — it always feels special. It’s quiet, slow, and almost magical.

Soon the sun grew stronger and brighter.

Along the way, I saw an Italian man standing by the Camino offering wax stamps. Curious, I stopped and got one. It was very beautifully made.

After getting the stamp, I continued walking.

Today was another beautiful day with clear blue skies. On the way, I met two Croatian girls, Anna and Maria, and we walked together for a while.

After some time, I stopped for breakfast at a small bar — and coincidentally, they stopped there too. We chatted more over coffee before continuing to walk together.

Further ahead, near Sahagún, we saw a stone sculpture marking what is often considered the halfway point of the Camino Francés.

I continued walking into the centre of Sahagún and stopped for lunch.

I had cheesecake again, but this one was not what I expected — honestly, a bit disappointing. Not every cheesecake can be amazing, I guess.

After lunch, I continued walking to the albergue. It was a donativo albergue, and the lady running it was from Brazil — it was her second day volunteering there. She was very warm and kind.

That evening, three other pilgrims (one from Belgium, one from Colombia, and one from Italy), the Brazilian host, and I went together to have dinner at a nearby bar — the only place open in the village.

The food was a bit disappointing: a few chicken wings, fries, and a “not-so-good” cheesecake for dessert. But Camino dinners are always a mix of good and bad. In the end, I reminded myself that at least I had warm food, a place to sleep, and good company around the table — and that is often enough.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue de Peregrinos San Roque — full accommodation details here.

Day 18 — Calzada del Coto → Villamarco (23.4 km)

I started walking in the dark again. The sky slowly shifted from deep blue to soft orange as the light returned.

Not long after setting off, I caught up with an Australian girl who had stayed at the albergue the night before. We walked together for a while. She had recently graduated in law and pharmacy — quite impressive!

After some time, our pace naturally became different and we parted ways. I stopped at a small bar for breakfast.

At the bar, I met an Irish/English couple, and we chatted during breakfast. They kindly offered to wait for me so we could walk together, but I told them it was okay to go ahead. On the Camino, everyone has their own rhythm, and I didn’t want to slow anyone down.

After breakfast, the sky turned bright blue and the temperature began to rise.

Knowing that a long stretch without shade was coming up, I decided to stop again to buy a sandwich and two small yoghurts before heading into that exposed section. While ordering in Spanish, I accidentally asked for a knife (cuchillo) instead of a spoon (cuchara) for the yoghurt. I only realised my mistake when the owner kindly corrected me and said she would give me a cuchara instead. I found it quite funny at the time — and I’m pretty sure I’ll never mix those two words up again.

At that stop, I ran into the Australian girl again. She actually sewed her blister right in front of me to drain it! It was impressive and a little scary at the same time. Camino blisters are truly no joke.

Afterwards, I continued walking toward Villamarco. This stretch had almost no shade at all — just open land and direct sun.

Villamarco is about 1 km off the main Camino path, so it’s very quiet. There is only one albergue in the village, and unfortunately only one small bar. There was no proper dinner available — just sandwiches.

Even though the food options were limited, the town itself felt very peaceful and calm.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue La Vieja Escuela — full accommodation details here.

Day 19 — Villamarco → Arcahueja (23.0 km)

I started walking in the dark again. As usual, the sky slowly changed colours — from deep blue to soft orange — as the morning light appeared.

At the beginning of the stage, the path mostly followed the side of the road, which wasn’t the most scenic stretch.

After walking for a while, I finally reached a bar where I could stop for breakfast. Because of the cooler temperature, I was glad to be able to step into a warm bar and take a break. It was still quite early, so there were not many options available. I ended up having two fried eggs and a café con leche, which helped warm me up before continuing the walk.

Later on, I stopped again at another bar for a short break and had a tortilla and another café con leche.

After that, I continued walking under the clear blue skies.

Before arriving at the hotel where I planned to stay that night, I stopped at a nearby restaurant, Restaurante El Pradillo, to have lunch.

The ribs were actually very good, and it was one of those satisfying Camino meals after a long morning of walking.

After paying the bill, the waitress told me, “Hablas muy bien español.” I really appreciated the compliment, although in reality I hadn’t spoken very much Spanish — maybe just something like “¿Puedo pagar con tarjeta?”.

Still, it made me very happy. One of my goals on the Camino was to practise Spanish, so even small interactions like this felt encouraging.

After arriving at the hotel, I noticed a sign on the wall that read “Camino de Santiago 320 km →” It reminded me that I had already walked a long distance, and suddenly the remaining journey felt much shorter than when I first started. The Camino still had a long way to go, but it felt like the end was slowly becoming more real.

After arriving at the hotel, I noticed a sign on the wall that read “Camino de Santiago → 320 km.” Seeing that number made me pause for a moment. It reminded me that I had already walked a long distance, and suddenly the remaining journey felt much shorter than when I first started. The Camino still had a long way to go, but it felt like the end was slowly becoming more real.

From the window of my hotel room, I could also see the sky slowly changing colour in the evening. I didn’t catch the actual sunset, but watching the sky shift from blue to warm tones was still a beautiful way to end the day.

That evening I also needed to do some laundry. Since the hotel didn’t provide a laundry service, I washed my clothes in the hotel sink. Then I moved one of the chairs from my room out onto the balcony and hung my clothes over it so they could dry in the sun. It was a simple but very practical Camino-style laundry solution.

🛏️ Stayed at Hotel Camino Real — full accommodation details here.

Day 20 — Arcahueja → Oncina (19.1 km)

I started walking in the dark again, heading toward León. The walk into the city wasn’t particularly pleasant as much of the route followed the side of the road.

Along the way, I began seeing the metal Camino shells embedded in the pavement, which meant I was getting closer to León.

When I arrived at León Cathedral, it was only around 8:30 a.m., so the square was still quiet and almost empty.

This gave me a rare moment to appreciate the cathedral peacefully without many people around. The building is absolutely stunning, and seeing it in the calm of the morning made the experience even more special.

Afterward, I went to a nearby café for breakfast and had toast with jamón and a café con leche.

Because my blister had been getting worse and León is a large city, I decided to walk around to look for a pharmacy to find a proper ankle brace. Eventually I found one and spoke with the pharmacist in Spanish. She was very patient and kind, and recommended an ankle brace that could support my ankle and reduce the pressure from the blister.

It actually helped a lot for the next few days. Unfortunately, I later lost it during laundry and couldn’t find it again — but while I had it, it definitely made walking easier.

When I returned to the cathedral area, I unexpectedly ran into Freeman, the Chinese pilgrim I had met earlier in the Camino. He treated me to another small breakfast at a café just opposite the cathedral.

We sat and chatted for a while before continuing our journeys.

Before leaving the city centre, I also met a Korean couple whom I had encountered several times along the Camino. We took a selfie together in front of the cathedral.

Since I prefer quieter places, I decided not to stay in León overnight and continued walking toward my destination.

After walking for a while, I stopped for lunch before continuing.

Today’s albergue required a small detour from the main Camino route, which made it very quiet and peaceful.

The albergue had a beautiful garden with a hammock. I tried getting onto the hammock but failed the first time — it was my first time using one! Luckily, two other pilgrims helped me, and eventually I managed to lie down and relax.

There was also a cat and a dog in the garden, and they were incredibly cute. At one point they were even sleeping together.

The host offered dinner at the albergue, and it turned out to be one of the best meals of the entire Camino — a very delicious home-cooked dinner.

After dinner, I chatted with the host for a while. She was very kind and encouraged me to keep practising Spanish during my Camino.

I really loved this albergue. It was clean, peaceful, and surrounded by a beautiful garden, and the host was incredibly warm and welcoming.

It might even be one of the best albergues of my entire journey.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue El Pajar de Oncina — full accommodation details here.

Day 21 — Oncina → Hospital de Órbigo (25.0 km)

I started walking again before 7 a.m., still in the dark. When I looked up, I could see stars scattered across the sky, something I don’t often notice in cities.

After walking for nearly an hour in the dark with my headlamp, the sky slowly began to brighten and the sun started to rise.

Once the morning light arrived, I stopped for breakfast and had a café con leche and a tortilla.

After breakfast, I continued walking. Much of today’s route followed the road, making the stage quite flat and relatively easy.

Later on, I stopped again for another short breakfast break — this time toast, orange juice, and a café — before continuing the walk.

The path continued mostly along the road.

Before reaching the next town, I stopped for lunch.

After lunch, the sun became very strong, and the temperature rose quickly. The final stretch required walking directly under the sun and heat before finally arriving at the albergue.

That evening, I decided not to join the albergue dinner and instead walked to a nearby restaurant called La Encomienda. I had heard they served a famous sopa de trucha, so I decided to try it.

The restaurant had a very beautiful interior, with warm and traditional decoration.

For dinner, I ordered the sopa de trucha and a cheesecake.

The soup was delicious and very filling — a perfect meal after a long day of walking.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue Hidalgos — full accommodation details here.

Day 22 — Hospital de Órbigo → Astorga (16.5 km)

After walking for a while in the morning, I stopped for breakfast and had a tortilla and café con leche before continuing the day’s walk.

As I continued walking, the sun slowly began to rise.

The morning was a bit foggy and misty.

Today’s stage was relatively short, around 16–17 km, so I arrived in the city of Astorga quite early, at around 11:15 a.m.

The first thing I saw was the beautiful Palacio de Gaudí Astorga.

Not far from it stands the Astorga Cathedral, which is very impressive — large and elegant.

Before going to the cathedral, I checked the mass schedule and decided to attend. Although I’m not religious and couldn’t understand most of what was being said, the atmosphere during the mass felt very calm and peaceful.

Afterward, I walked to the albergue. The stay was only 10 euros, it was a twin room with a private bathroom. I shared the room with Anna from Romania, whom I met there.

Later, I searched for a place to try Cocido Maragato, a traditional local dish from Astorga that I really wanted to experience. Unfortunately, it was Sunday, and many restaurants closed early. Luckily, I managed to find a restaurant that still served it.

The dish was incredibly filling. It might not have been the most famous place in Astorga for Cocido Maragato, but I was still happy to try this local specialty.

In the evening, the albergue organized a sharing session and a mass. During the sharing, one pilgrim spoke about why he was walking the Camino. He said he came because his wife was very sick and he was searching for hope.

It was a very touching moment. Listening to stories like this reminds me that every pilgrim carries their own reason for walking the Camino, and every journey has its own meaning.

By the end of the day, I also noticed that the bites on my hands had become quite swollen and itchy. I wasn’t sure what had bitten me, but they were definitely uncomfortable. Hopefully they would settle down in the next few days.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue Franciscano — full accommodation details here.

Day 23 — Astorga → Rabanal del Camino (20.2 km)

Today was noticeably cooler as I started walking out of Astorga. After walking for a while, I finally saw a bar and happily went inside for a warm breakfast.

I ordered a café con leche and a tortilla.

Because it was still quite cold outside, the warm tortilla tasted especially good. It was actually one of the best tortillas I had on the Camino — the center was slightly melted and soft, which I prefer much more than the firmer, overcooked ones.

After breakfast, the sun slowly came out and the weather started warming up.

Later on, I stopped at a café where I had planned to try their carrot cake. I had actually looked it up beforehand and wanted to make sure I didn’t miss it. I ordered a slice together with another café con leche.

While sitting there, I noticed that the bites on my hand had become even more swollen and itchy.

Some fellow pilgrims saw my hand and kindly offered me some medication to help with the itching. One of them even suggested drawing a circle around the bites with a pen to check if the swelling spread over time. Moments like this really show how supportive people on the Camino can be.

After the break, I continued walking.

Along the way, I ran into a Malaysian girl whom I had met earlier in the journey. We walked together for a while and chatted before arriving near the town where I would stay. She continued walking to her own albergue while I stopped at mine.

My accommodation today was a donativo albergue, run by hosts from the UK and Ireland. When I arrived, it was still closed and would only open at 12 p.m., so I had to wait for a while outside.

Once I checked in, I went out again to have lunch at a nearby restaurant.

After lunch, I wandered around the town for a bit. It was small, quiet, and very peaceful.

There was no laundry service in the albergue, so normally pilgrims would hand-wash their clothes. However, after I explained my situation with the bites on my hand — and my concern that they might possibly be bedbug bites — I wanted to wash everything properly.

The hospitaleros were incredibly kind and offered to let me use their own washing machine and dryer to clean my clothes. I felt very grateful because they absolutely didn’t have to do that.

In the afternoon, the albergue also hosted a tea time in the garden, offering tea and homemade cakes.

There I met two Korean girls, and we chatted for a while before I went back to rest.

Later in the evening, I went out for dinner and ordered a steak. I ended up sitting with an American pilgrim, and we shared a nice conversation during dinner.

On my way back to the albergue, I looked up and saw a very bright, full moon in the sky. It was the Mid-Autumn Festival, which made the moment feel even more special.

🛏️ Stayed at Refugio Gaucelmo — full accommodation details here.

Day 24 — Rabanal del Camino → Molinaseca (24.7 km)

I started walking in the dark again. When I looked up, I could see stars scattered across the sky above me.

As I continued walking, the bright full moon was right in front of me on the path, lighting the way.

Slowly the sky began to brighten as the sun prepared to rise.

After climbing higher into the mountains, I stopped at a café for breakfast and had a tortilla and café con leche.

After breakfast, I continued walking and soon reached one of the most symbolic points of the Camino Francés — Cruz de Ferro, the iron cross and the highest point of the entire route.

Standing there felt special. Many pilgrims leave a small stone there as a symbolic gesture of letting go of something they carry with them.

After this point, the hardest part of the day began — the long descent.

The weather was very sunny, and much of the route had no shade at all, although the scenery was beautiful.

Walking downhill is sometimes even harder than climbing up. You have to constantly control your balance. Today we descended more than 1000 meters!

After descending for a while, I finally reached a small town where I could stop for a break.

At the café there, I met the Malaysian girl again whom I had walked with the day before. She joined me for a break. I ordered carrot cake, tortilla, and a café con leche, and we sat down to rest for a while.

After the break, we continued the descent together. It was still a challenging walk, but having company made it feel much easier.

Eventually we arrived at Molinaseca, a village that is listed among “Los pueblos más bonitos de España” — one of the most beautiful villages in Spain.

When we arrived, it really did feel charming and picturesque.

After entering the village, I said goodbye to the Malaysian girl as she needed to continue to her own albergue.

Once I settled into my albergue, I went out to look for lunch. While walking through the town, I noticed there were many cats around the streets.

For lunch, I went to a restaurant and ordered steak.

After eating, I walked around the town a bit more to explore.

I also managed to buy some bug spray to spray on my body and some cream for my hand to help with the bites.

There were still many cats around the village, which made the town feel even more lively.

In the evening, I went to a bar in town and had a few tapas for dinner.

🛏️ Stayed at Casa Rural Lua Bierzo — full accommodation details here.

Day 25 — Molinaseca → Valtuille de Arriba (26.1 km)

I started walking at around 7 a.m., while it was still dark.

As I left the town, I saw a sign that read “Molinaseca — uno de los pueblos más bonitos de España.”

It was a nice reminder that I had just stayed in one of the most beautiful villages in Spain.

I continued walking in the darkness for a while.

Soon I arrived in the city of Ponferrada, which felt like the last big city before Santiago along my route. I had looked up a churrería beforehand because I really wanted to try churros on the Camino, so I stopped at Churrería Alba for breakfast.

For breakfast I had two churros with hot chocolate, a big latte, and a tostada with jamón and avocado. Everything was very delicious and gave me plenty of energy for the morning walk.

While walking through the city, I noticed a different Camino sign embedded in the floor, which caught my attention.

When leaving the city, I walked up to a small viewpoint overlooking Ponferrada.

After that, I continued my journey. Along the way, I saw a few cats wandering around the village streets.

After some time, I stopped again for lunch. I had a café con leche and a tostada with avocado and salmon.

After lunch, the sun became stronger and the temperature started rising, so I had to continue walking under the sun with very little shade.

Even though it was hot, the scenery along the way was quite pleasant, with the open countryside.

Eventually I reached my albergue for the day. Like a few previous stops, this one required a small detour from the main Camino route, which meant it was very quiet. In fact, there were only three pilgrims staying there that night, which made the place feel peaceful and relaxed.

🛏️ Stayed at Acogida La Biznaga — full accommodation details here.

Day 26 — Valtuille de Arriba → Vega de Valcarce (27.2 km)

Today I started a bit later than usual, at a little after 8 a.m. As I left, the sky was still quite cloudy.

After walking for a while, I arrived at the town of Villafranca del Bierzo.

From here, I decided to take the alternative Camino route — the mountain path via Pradela. This route is more challenging, with a long uphill climb, but offers better views and a quieter experience.

The path quickly turned into a mountain road, and there was no one else along the way.

Although it was a tough climb, the views were beautiful, and I could walk in complete silence and tranquility, which felt very special.

I had heard that there was nothing available up in the mountains, as the only albergue, Albergue Lamas, was closed due to the owner being sick.

Still, I was really hoping to find at least some food or at least a coffee. While I was looking around, a woman passed by and pointed me in a direction, saying I should continue that way along the Camino.

I asked her if there was a café there, and it turned out she was the owner herself. She kindly opened it for me so I could go in and rest.

I ordered a café con leche and took a much-needed break after the long uphill climb.

That moment felt incredibly special — one of those unexpected acts of kindness on the Camino.

After the break, I continued the route, now heading downhill toward Trabadelo. By this time it was already noon, and the sun was strong, making the descent hot and exposed. The path was still very quiet, with no other pilgrims around.

When I arrived in Trabadelo, I stopped for lunch.

After lunch, I continued walking. Along the way, I stopped at an albergue for another short break and had cake and a café con leche.

Then I continued on toward Vega de Valcarce, my destination for the day.

Today I had a private room, which allowed me to finally have some proper rest.

In the evening, I had originally found a nice restaurant I wanted to try, but I forgot to check the closing time and arrived too late — it was already closed. Since it’s a small town, there were very limited options, and only one bar was still open serving food.

So I went there and had a simple dinner — tortilla and some tapas.

Even though it wasn’t the proper dinner I had hoped for, there was still a nice moment. I ordered in Spanish, and the owner complimented my Spanish again, saying I had a good accent. That small encouragement really cheered me up.

🛏️ Stayed at Albergue-Pensión Fernández — full accommodation details here.

Day 27 — Vega de Valcarce → Triacastela (28.0 km)

Today was a day I had been looking forward to — a fun but challenging climb up to O Cebreiro.

I started walking at around 7:30 a.m., while it was still dark, and I could see stars in the sky above me.

After climbing for a while, almost halfway up to O Cebreiro, I stopped at a café for breakfast.

Since I had already climbed quite a bit and was feeling hungry, I ordered two toasts, a tortilla, and a café con leche — a proper, filling breakfast before continuing the ascent.

After the break, I continued uphill. The weather today was very nice with clear blue skies, and the views along the climb were absolutely stunning.

Soon, I reached the point where I was crossing into Galicia, marked by a stone monument.

From here, I also started noticing a different style of Camino markers, unique to Galicia.

After this beautiful climb, I finally reached O Cebreiro.

At the top, I visited a souvenir shop and bought a small keychain. While paying, the owner asked where I was from, and when I told her, she kindly gifted me a pin with both the Camino flag and the Hong Kong flag together.

It was such a heartwarming moment.

After that, I visited the church in O Cebreiro before continuing my journey downhill.

On the way down, I could see incredible mountain views stretching far into the distance.

After a while, I reached the well-known pilgrim statue at Alto de San Roque.

The scenery continued to be beautiful as I walked along the mountains.

Later, I stopped at a café for a break and ordered orange juice and a café con leche to cool down in the heat.

However, this stop wasn’t very pleasant. While I was still inside drinking, the owner suddenly announced the café was closed and asked everyone to leave. When I came out of the toilet, the place was already completely dark, and I had to find my way out and locate my trekking poles, which I had left at another exit.

After that, I continued my journey.

Along the way, I saw a few cats wandering around.

After reaching Alto do Poio, I chose to take the alternative route through the forest. I usually prefer alternative paths because they are quieter and have fewer people — and this one was exactly that.

I didn’t see anyone along the way, and walking through the forest in silence felt very peaceful.

After some time, I finally arrived at today’s albergue.

Today I stayed in a private room with a private bathroom, which meant I could have a really good rest. Although sometimes having a private room means I end up using my phone more at night and sleeping later than usual.

After checking in, I went to the restaurant and had some food. The area is known for its local cheese, so I tried cheese with honey, which was very unique and delicious.

Back in my room, I could even see chickens outside from my window, which added to the countryside atmosphere.

Then came my least favourite part of the day — doing laundry. In the laundry area, I met a Northern Irish lady, and she finally taught me how to properly use the hand-washing setup, which was actually very helpful.

After resting for a while, I went down for dinner. It was supposed to start at 7 p.m., but I arrived slightly late and found the dining hall already quite full.

It was a large dining hall, and I ended up sitting with a group of French-speaking pilgrims. One of them was learning Spanish, so we chatted a bit in Spanish during dinner.

The meal was great — a big bowl of soup, followed by rice with beef to share, which was very filling. After the rather simple dinner the day before, this felt like a proper and satisfying meal.

For dessert, we had a Tarta de Santiago.

After dinner, I went to collect my laundry, but it was still not fully dry. Luckily, since I had a private room with heating, I hung my clothes near the heater, and they dried quickly.

🛏️ Stayed at Casa Rural Núñez — full accommodation details here.